Soltia Aviary


Buying a Rehomed Parrot

Many parrots need to be rehomed for various reasons – death of the owner, allergies, financial stresses, moving into non-pet residences, or for less justifiable reasons, including neglect and even abuse. Rehomed parrots are generally not recommended for first-time parrot owners, although it is very altruistic of you, the buyer, to consider such a purchase.

1) Visit the parrot and ask for as much information as possible about the personality, health, and if there are any DNA and hatch certificates or health records available.

2) Observe the general health and disposition of the parrot. Rehoming can be a challenging adventure but can require a lot of time and patience depending on the past history of the parrot.

Buying a Parrot from Pet Store/Broker

Again, ask the same questions as when buying a rehomed parrot. Visit and handle the parrot several times if possible before any decisions are made. It is desirable to ask for and obtain any available records, i.e., DNA, hatch certificates, health certificates (if available) and any information about the parents. Some of this information, if not all of it, may be withheld from you, the buyer, for reasons with which we do not agree. You should feel totally comfortable and reassured that the parrot is a good choice for you
and your family and the cost is not over inflated.
Buying from a Breeder/Aviary


I cannot emphasize enough that buying a chick from an aviary should be a positive experience for you. Please note the following advice is for serious buyers, remembering that aviaries are not for casual public viewing.

1) The breeder is willing to provide pictures of parents and chicks to serious buyers prior to the deposit.
2) The chicks are being raised in a non-smoking aviary and home.
3) Parents are on site at the aviary.
4) After being fed by the parents for the first three to four weeks, chicks are removed, handfed parrot formula, gradually weaned to hard food, hand raised and socialized to become accustom to human contact, house noises, kind pets, etc. Please note that various clutch mates may differ in their response to humans.
5) Chicks are fed a variety of fruits and vegetables, nuts, and good quality chow (small parrots may be fed good quality seed as well). (See Diet link.)
6) Chicks should be sold with DNA certificates, hatch certificates that state the parents’ band numbers and/or any other information about them as was made available to the breeder. Chicks may not need health certificates especially in a closed aviary** as parents have been already been certified. Health Certificates are expensive and, if required by you, may raise the purchase price. You should have a few days after purchase to visit to a good avian veterinarian if you wish.
7) Chicks may or may not be banded but it is preferable for identification if they are lost and very essential for breeding bloodlines. Some breeders sell other smaller aviary breeders’ clutches. However, the same information should be available to you regardless of who is handling the sale.


THE AVIARY
If the breeder does not offer to show you the aviary, ask if you can at least see into the aviary where your baby has been hatched. Some breeders are extremely secretive about the conditions/locations of their aviaries and this should make you personally very wary. Understandably, the breeders will not want people moving around the aviary if there are hens on eggs orwith chicks. The common excuse for denial seems to be that buyers may carry disease into the aviary. However, you as a buyer should be able to see that the aviary floor and walls are clean, there is adequate lighting in the room (numerous windows or UV lights) and the parrots are housed in appropriate sized cages and appear healthy. Be realistic though. There is a difference between 1-2 day old poop papers and a week or more collection of droppings. Cages should not have old food stuck on the bars and the water should be fresh daily (remembering that some parrots do drop their food into their water).

Whether buying a purebred puppy or kitten or parrot, you as the buyer should leave the experience feeling that:
1) you have been treated hospitably and fairly
2) you have been encouraged to stay in touch with progress reports and be able to ask any further questions
3) everything has been done to provide you with the healthiest, socialized chick as is humanly possible
4) you have as much background information on your new addition as the breeder is able to give you.

If it is impractical for you to see the aviary due to distance, perhaps you can ask another buyer who has dealt with this aviary or another reputable aviary breeder if they had a positive experience buying or selling parrots from the aviary in question.

**Please note: A closed aviary is an aviary where the owner does not take in other breeders’ parrots to sell or allow random public to view the aviary.**


PAST HISTORY IN PARROT BREEDING

In the past century, most breeders of parrots have been very lax in keeping records on the ages of the parrots, the original bloodlines and breeding history. This information may not have mattered as much to the pet owners but new breeders do not necessarily know if the breeding pairs were closely related. The issue of wild caught parrots versa captive bred parrots has been mostly resolved in past decades but record keeping still needs to be greatly improved.



SOLTIA AVIARY MISSION STATEMENT

To breed the healthiest, socialized chicks as possible and to provide all known background information to the new owners.


We at Soltia Aviary are very concerned that at least the larger parrots be banded, and that DNA and breeding records (i.e. hatch certificate) are issued. The new owners are encouraged to keep these records in a safe place and, if the parrots are rehomed or sold, they send the information along with the parrots. Because parrots are frequently rehomed and often end up in breeding aviaries, this vital information is so valuable but is often missing. Record keeping needs to be standardized in Canada for the benefit of the parrots, owners and breeders.

This should be an optimal goal for all breeders.

Respectfully,

Barbara Miller

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